SIERRA LEONE DIARY 2000
REPORT ON THE SHORT VISIT OF MIKE THOMAS TO SIERRA LEONE IN APRIL 2000

Sunday 30th April
I set out for Heathrow Airport bound for Sierra Leone where I was to monitor a project of the Future in Our Hands Education and Development Fund funded by the Big Lottery Fund.
With the news that about 500 UN troops being taken hostage fresh in my mind I was feeling a little apprehensive.
I arrived at Heathrow to learn that the Ghana Airways flight to Accra the previous day had been cancelled and it appeared that, despite my prior booking, the flight I was due to take was full because of this problem. At the last moment I was told that there were in fact 6 single places available and I was lucky enough to be able to get one of these as I only had hand luggage.
The plane sped down the runway, but instead of taking off, it decelerated and returned to the terminal. This time there was a fault in the air speed indicator.
Passengers were accommodated at a local hotel where we arrived at about 2.00 a.m. Monday morning. I returned home and started to make alternative plans.
[This apparent setback later proved to be fortuitous]

Friday 5th May
After a relatively trouble-free journey from Gatwick, this time using Monarch Airways as far as Banjul in the Gambia and then Paramount Airways to Freetown, I arrived at Lungi Airport in Freetown to be greeted by the usual hassle at airports where anyone with a white face is descended upon by several men wanting to 'help you'!
I boarded the helicopter and arrived at the Mammy Yoko Heliport near the centre of Freetown where I was met by my courageous friend, Sierra Leonean Edward Kargbo, the co-ordinator of the project since it started. His life has been threatened twice since the start of the project 4 years ago. Five members of his Future in Our Hands group were killed whilst carrying out a survey and humanitarian work when people were driven into the bush by rebel attacks in the project area 90 miles north of Freetown.

He collected me from the heliport and took me to the flat of his sister, Sally, at the top of a four-storey building in Kissy Road near the centre of the city where I was due to spend the next few days. We arrived at 8.30 p.m.
The atmosphere in Freetown seemed strangely normal but I was struck by the small number of taxis compared with my last visit in 1993. A large number of people were walking in all directions.
Every now and then we would pass burnt-out cars and buildings - the aftermath of the terrible rebel onslaught on Freetown in January when the rebels drove thousands of civilians in front of them as a human shield to face the Nigerian soldiers guarding the city.
Edward and I talked until about 11.00 p.m. and he told me that he would be spending most of the next day consulting his staff and re-scheduling my programme.
As Edward talked about all that had been achieved despite his past injuries during an ambush on the convoy with which he was travelling, three attacks on the project areas and the destruction of materials, I felt once again privileged to know this man and count him as a close friend.
I had little sleep that night because of the oppressive heat inside the bedroom.

Saturday 6th May
I awoke at 7.00 a.m. and after breakfast accompanied Edward to his office in Brass Street just half a mile away. From there I was able to ring my wife Glenys and tell her I had arrived safely. This was the first opportunity I had found to do so. The 'office' was a rented garage with about 100 bags of grain seed taking up most of the space (at least this had been kept safe from the rebel attacks). In a corner of the room was a telephone and fax machine. I wondered how this frugal accommodation compared with that of other agencies working in Sierra Leone. Other aspects of Edward's management made me think that the Big Lottery Fund was getting exceptional value for its grant, especially with regard to the good will and hope that it had engendered in several thousand people traumatised by the conflict.
Edward left to talk with his staff and people from the displaced camps we were to visit the next day.
I had brought several games with me as presents and I spent most of the afternoon playing these with Sally's three children.
I returned to the office with Edward in the evening and there we were met by six women from the Clay Factory displaced camp where Edward's staff had been helping the women to establish income-generating activities like tailoring, typing, gara dyeing and soap making. They were very pleased to see me and the appreciation of the help they had been receiving was a joy.
One of his staff, Abu, returned from the project area at Yonibana and reported that the situation was quiet and stable. Edward thought that we would visit the area on Wednesday where we would see the agricultural work and other income-generating activities and the savings and credit scheme. A large meeting addressed by many dignitaries and attended by about two thousand people was also to be planned before moving on to the second project area at Lunsar where toilets and wells were being constructed.

In the evening he left to see his family who were living about ten miles away after first placing a mattress and my mosquito net on the outside veranda where a pleasant cool breeze would help me to get a good night's sleep, except that...!.

Sunday 7th May
At about 2.00 a.m. Sally urged me to come inside quickly and told me that the rebels were reported only 20 miles away and headed towards Freetown. For about 5 mins I felt overwhelmed by a feeling of panic - the thought that within the next hour or two we could be threatened by rebels at the point of a gun. How would they react upon seeing me? Would I be taken hostage. However, after that short reaction I felt strangely calm - concerned rather than fearful. Abu had stayed the night. Sally urged that we must all stay together and not move from the house. We remained calm but generally silent as we waited in expectation of an onslaught upon the city. Thankfully the children slept, oblivious to what was happening. They had been through all this once before and I reflected upon the animated recounting of the horror of the rebels last visit by Sally's seven year old son, Mohammed, the previous night. He described how he had cowered in fear as one of the rebels had demanded money from him and how he had dodged through the streets trying to avoid other rebels [What men are these to threaten a small boy?].

The night passed and day broke with the sound of bells from the church on the other side of the road. It was nearly
8.00 a.m. and I resolved to attend the early service, but as I walked out of the building Edward (himself a Muslim with two wives and nine children) arrived and said that he felt the situation in the country was unstable. 'I should leave for Conakry in Guinea at once'. He was generous in the reason he gave for urging me to leave - 'If you stay I will worry about you as well as my family and anyway you can do more good for us if you leave' . I felt that deep down he wanted me to stay and hoped that the situation would stabilise within a few days so that I could return. I regret that I was not so confident, but I had very mixed feelings about going.

As we drove to the heliport at Mammy Yoko I felt that the least I could do was to give Edward most of my belongings including the camera I had borrowed from my wife, Glenys. I looked across at Edward and saw a tear flowing down his cheek - this echoed my own inner feelings.
There were many people starting to arrive but I was one of the first to order my ticket and was entered on a list. Most people were content to take the helicopter scheduled for Lungi and then book their plane flights onwards when they got there. Helicopters arrived and went as we waited. As some Lebanese (who dominate most of the country's economy) began to arrive, some people were concerned that they would bribe officials and jump the queue. I do not know whether this happened or not.
I was reminded of the film 'The Killing Fields' when it showed the Americans hurriedly leaving Phnom Penh as the Khmer Roug attacked the city.
A man dressed in a long green jacket and red trousers and wearing a bobble hat and dark glasses was talking to people in a comic fashion at the top of his voice and this added to the surreal nature of the situation. I guessed he was a local comedian, but he was talking in Krio which I had difficulty understanding. I don't know his motive for appearing on this most unlikely stage but his presence certainly relieved the tension.
As we left, Edward assured me that he would ring my wife - and I knew that he would.

We waited for what seemed like two hours with people pushing and shoving at the office kiosk with Edward hovering ready to collect my ticket. I was beginning to get the feeling that I might be staying after all!
However the ticket finally arrived and we relaxed and took photographs of each other, Johnny Paul Koroma, himself once in alliance with the rebels but now one of the leaders in the government, was periodically heard giving assurances over the radio that 'the armed forces were ready to protect the nation at all costs even if the UN troops were to leave. Everyone should remain calm'.

After the helicopter arrived at Freetown's at Lungi Airport, officials started impressing a sense of urgency. However, it was over an hour before the Russian Paramount plane was ready to take off for Conakry. For some reason not explained by the pilot, the air conditioning inside was not working and the heat inside was oppressive. Several people complained, but I was unconcerned - this was hardly a trip to some tourist location!
Of course I arrived at Conakry in Guinea without a visa and the help desk was not open as this was a Sunday. Nor could I change my travellers cheques and I did not have enough money to buy my ticket for the onward flight to Banjul in the Gambia. I was immediately 'adopted' by a taxi driver and although I thought this was likely to cost me over the odds, I was glad of having a translator in a country where few people spoke English (Guinea had previously been a colony of France). We drove around looking for black market dealers who could change the few sterling notes I had on me (The next day I discovered the exchange rate and realised that I had been cheated out of about ten pounds). The first hotel he took me to was too expensive and the second had rooms which were too dirty. But third time was lucky and we found a good cheap hotel (£17.50 per night).
We returned to the airport and I rang Glenys. Edward had phoned her and she was relieved that I had left Sierra Leone.

Monday 8th May
I travelled into Conakry about seven miles away with the owner of the hotel. He took me to the British Consulate where I was advised about where to buy my ticket and change my travellers cheques.
After changing my travellers cheques and buying my ticket to Banjul (for the coming Thursday) I still did not know whether I would be able to change my booking for the flight on to Gatwick or whether I would be charged anything for this.
I was advised to try and get accommodation at the Catholic Mission, but when I arrived I was told that it was fully booked because of an important religious conference taking place that week and because of the number of people leaving Sierra Leone. Nevertheless I was told that I should wait and see the Secretary who had gone to the airport to meet missionaries coming from Freetown.
I sat beneath the cool shade of a grove of mango trees where I waited for about two hours.
As I sat there thinking that I had not eaten since breakfast, a mango fell and split on the ground next to me. I ate it with relish. The secretary then returned and confirmed that there was no room and that she expected more people from Freetown the next day and did not know how she would accommodate them. However, she asked the Mission driver to take me to find accommodation.
We soon found a very pleasant basic hotel (£17.50 per night) with an internal bar run by a very helpful young man with whom I was to become very friendly.
The climate of Conakry was very hot and humid (even more so than Freetown) and to find a room with air conditioning, a bath and a toilet was an unexpected and welcome surprise.
As I lay down I was struck by the realisation that I might have encountered a rebel attack in the project area of Yonibana if I had left Swindon on the 30th April as I had originally intended. Three journalists had been killed in this area at the time I should been there according to my original schedule.
I rang Edward who told me that many people had marched to Foday Sankoh's residence in Freetown. Several were killed by Sankoh's soldiers during the protest. He sounded very worried about the situation.
I slept very well that night for the first time since I left the UK.

Tuesday 9th May
As I sat eating breakfast the CNN News was showing the 250 British paratroopers arriving in Freetown to protect Europeans and, more worryingly, confrontations between UN soldiers and unarmed rebels. I thought about the possible consequences if the UN troops fired upon them.
I later rang Edward and this time he sounded more positive. He said that he had phoned Glenys again and a sent the fax message, as I had requested, wishing my daughter a happy birthday. She will be 29 on Thursday. He asked if I would return to Sierra Leone, but I told him that I did not now have enough money to do so. I said that it was better for me to return to the UK and come again when we knew that the situation in the project areas was secure.
I went into town and bought a pineapple and a loaf of bread and then did some washing. I spent part of the day walking around town and then had a shower. My routine for the rest of the week was very much the same.
In the afternoon I watched a round table discussion about the Sierra Leone crisis. The Sierra Leone ambassador to the UN pointed out that their government had not been happy with the agreement they had been forced into by Britain, the UN and the USA. He also reminded us that Sierra Leoneans had fought for the Allies in two world wars and that now it was time for Europe to help them.
The commander of the British force said that their mandate was not to become involved in the conflict unless they were attacked. They were there to secure Lungi Airport and the safety of Europeans. I hoped that they had a hidden mandate to do more than that. He said that their role would release more UN soldiers to move inland.
The UN representative remarked that the UN soldiers had been sent in on the basis of good will by both parties in the conflict (I thought that this statement was grossly naive and irresponsible). He also said that the UN force had not yet been brought up to full strength. He admitted that some of the UN force had not matched up to expectations when confronted by the rebels. He said that there was a possibility that Nigerian troops could return, but he had insisted that the UN should pay for their involvement.
Sorious Samora, whose courageous filming had brought international attention to the brutal rebel attack on Freetown, also pointed out that Sierra Leoneans had fought in two world wars. He also criticised the UN and said that they had sent soldiers who were clearly not properly trained for the job.
The US representative said that under no circumstances would the US send troops, but that they would help with logistical support.

Wednesday 10th May
I faxed Glen with some questions to ask about my flight back. I told her that money was tight and that she might have to pick me up at Gatwick.
The CNN News was bad. Rebels had attacked Waterloo just a few miles from Freetown and a town in the east. Several UN armoured vehicles were reported captured by the rebels.
I rang Glenys and she told me that Edward was considering leaving the country.

Thursday 11th May
I awoke at 6.00 a.m. and left for Conakry Airport at 7.00 a.m. It rained for the first time since I had arrived in Africa.
I met a French journalist at the airport who was headed for Freetown. I gave him Edward's address.
The Ghana Airways plane took off at about 10.30 a.m. and arrived in Banjul at 11.00 a.m.
I took a taxi to the Gambia Experience at the Kairaba Hotel and booked my ticket back to Gatwick. I would have to pay £75 for this. I could not afford to stay at this hotel but found a small motel in a very pleasant location at Serakunda about 9 miles away. They charged £15 per night and this included breakfast.
The CNN reported more hopeful news from Sierra Leone. Government soldiers and UN and British troops had driven the rebels out of Waterloo and were moving out of Freetown to confront the rebels in other areas. At the same time thousands of people were flooding into Freetown to escape the rebels.
I met and walked with a friendly young man who took me to his Grandfather's house. He was a 'Maribu' - with a knowledge of Ju Ju magic. The young man had met my friend Matthew Tostevin in Serakunda. Matthew had covered the war for the BBC in 1990/91 travelling with troops on the front line along the border between Sierra Leone and Liberia. He witnessed many atrocities committed by soldiers on both sides.
Some children were playing football in the compound and I joined in.

Friday 12th May
I got up at 8.00 a.m. and strolled around Serakunda. My friend from yesterday arrived to see me at 10.30 and I left for the airport at 11.00 a.m. I had to wait until 2.00 p.m. before I knew I could get my ticket. A senior official at the airport was very helpful.
I arrived at Gatwick at 11.00 p.m. and got back to Swindon at 2.30 a.m. Saturday morning.

CLOSE


SIERRA LEONE DIARY 2002
REPORT ON THE VISIT OF MIKE THOMAS TO SIERRA LEONE BETWEEN THE 16/11/2002 AND 6/12/2002

Introduction
I have made three previous visits to Sierra Leone and each of these visits, to which I will refer later in this report, has some relevance to the latest visit. Previous visits were in 1988, 1993 and 2000. I have shown previous events in italics.
This 2002 visit was a period during which I would undergo some reassessments of previous strongly held views and attitudes. This was also a period of personal encouragement which contrasted with the climate of cynicism in the UK about the views and values I believed to be essential for a better world for everyone.
The visit was to bring about many emotional feelings, caused not just by the reunion with the friends I had made on previous visits. I also had to come to terms with the need for the following actions in achieving an end to ten years of bloody, cruel and pointless conflict:

- the killing of children by British soldiers
- the incorporation into society of rebel soldiers (people for whom I had developed a deep loathing) who had committed the most terrible of atrocities against civilian populations.

The following events, which happened on previous visits, are relevant to this visit and will be described in more detail later:

- a visit to a slum of about 5,000 people at Kroobay in the capital, Freetown and the subsequent installation of water taps and construction of a community centre
- a visit to the rural areas around Yonibana, 90 miles NE of Freetown, and the subsequent agricultural projects to help poor communities recover from the war
- a seminar at Port Loko, 60 miles north of Freetown, on appropriate technology, organic farming and primary health care
- meetings with the original FIOH group in Robert Street, Freetown
- establishing a new FIOH group at Forah Bay Road, Freetown.

Precious water
I arrived at Mamyoko Heliport, on the night of 16th November, two hours later than expected. The delay was partly due to the removal of a fractious passenger at Gatwick and the usual chaos at Freetown's International Airport where there seems to be a policy of using 10 employees where 2 might do.
I was met by Edward Kargbo and Olatunde Johnson who had patiently waited for my arrival. They had been joined by a member of a more recently established FIOH group in the capital which had been re-formed under the leadership of Osman Conteh. Both Olatunde and Edward had been developing the movement and helping people to survive the ten year civil war.

For the first and the last few days of my two and half week visit I stayed on the top floor of a three-storey building in Calabatown on the outskirts of Freetown. Each floor accommodated about 20 people served by a single toilet and bathroom. The flush on the toilet did not work of course and waste was cleared with half a bucket of water. I noticed that women were carrying water in very large plastic bowls up three flights of stairs from standpipes in the street. With that knowledge was it appropriate to flush away the faeces of the previous user before using it yourself? I will leave that question unanswered. How much water do you use when taking a very necessary 'bath' each day or to wash your clothes? In Africa, where people need far more water for their basic needs than we do in the UK, everyone has to manage on far less. We take water for granted and expect it to be on tap 24 hours a day every day. For Africans fetching water is a daily task, especially for women and children, that takes up a substantial part of their day. The situation is far more desperate in the rural areas.
Another facility we take for granted in the UK is the provision of free education for our children. If only English children were to witness the eagerness African children have for education they would not complain about going to school. There were children in the house at most times of the day when I was around and I would usually be confronted by a request to 'give them a lesson' - a bit of arithmetic, English, history, the importance of trees and the natural environment in general, etc. Most schools are private and those that are State run are usually starved of basic resources. Rarely can people afford to send their children to school every day.

I was amazed that these children were not still haunted by the spectre of the civil conflict - but then perhaps they were but were hiding this from me.
Although I was fully aware of the horrors, they were brought home to me very graphically by one of the FIOH staff, Jatu, who came each morning to make sure I had a breakfast and to keep me company. Her own experiences and those of friends she had spoken to, may sound terrible, but must have echoed those of nearly everyone in the country. The experience of people living in Calabatown, where I was staying, was especially bad because of the extended period of occupation by the rebels fighting against ECOMOG (combined African forces) led by the Nigerians based in the centre of the city.

 

 

Lord of the flies

A friend to whom I told the story of rebel atrocities when I returned to Swindon remarked 'Lord of the flies'. I knew exactly what he meant. He was referring to a famous film about children who were stranded on an Island and had to fend for themselves. After first developing a means of survival, they turned to a form of savage behaviour culminating in murder.


It was a story of the triumph of evil, ironically instigated by former choir boys, over good. It was a reflection of the madness that was to overtake Sierra Leone in which children were to carry out the very worst of atrocities - not always under duress as we might like to think.
Imagine the very worst atrocity that one human being can do to another and you can be almost certain that it was carried out during the past ten years in Sierra Leone - by all sides, not just the rebels. In fact, as recorded by my friend Matthew Tostevin who spent many months, between 1991 and 1996, with the troops covering the war for the BBC, government soldiers would often become 'rebels' at night and carry out attacks on people living in villages and in the bush. Essentially this was not so much a war between soldiers but a war 'without honour' by soldiers against civilians.
Occasionally, retribution carried out by civilians on captured rebels was equally disturbing.
The photograph I received showing a crowd of rejoicing villagers with a boy's head on the top of a pole, has painted an indelible and everlasting picture in my mind.
People were forced to excrete and then the faeces were fed to others. Whole families were herded together and then shot down; others were crowded into buildings which were then set on fire. A common atrocity was to cut off hands and feet - sometimes both hands or both feet. There was on account told to me of soldiers betting on the sex of the foetus of a pregnant woman and then cutting her open to find out who was right.
The motives of some of the Nigerian soldiers was also suspect. Some were heard to say "We like killing these rebels - you can usually find dollars and diamonds in their pockets."
How many returned to Nigeria and set up their own little businesses with what they had taken from rebels, I wondered?

Freetown - grid lock and overcrowding
The difference in the city which struck me most since my visits in 1993 and 2000 was an apparent marked increase in both the numbers of people and the numbers of cars. Thankfully I only had to travel through the centre of the city on three occasions and each time it took about one hour to travel a distance of only two miles (less than walking pace). The 'peak' periods also seemed to be extending to those times of day which were regarded as 'off-peak'. Almost 'wall-to-wall' people was the order of the day in some of the most trafficked streets. Travelling through Swindon at peak hours is like a picnic by comparison.
On all the visits I made in Sierra Leone, Eddie was my constant companion and did most of the driving.
Our first visit was to Olatunde's basic office at his home in Robert Street - a lockup garage now housed a group of computers powered by a solar panel and a small but impressive library. I asked him how he had preserved his books from rebel destruction when they occupied Freetown. He said they just tipped all the books onto the floor to make it look as if rebels had already vandalised the place. We also visited the group's school for pre-primary school children and a large area of land next to a secondary school where the group were encouraging youths to grow crops using organic methods.

In order to fully appreciate the reasons for the many trips made during this visit to Sierra Leone it is necessary to place them in an historical context.
Olatunde had been my very first contact in Sierra Leone. He had set up a small FIOH group when my daughter, Clare, and I visited in 1988. Since then he has established another group called 'Friends of the Earth Sierra Leone' with a greater bias towards conservation and the natural environment. I was pleased that he had recently been able to build up a relationship with an organisation named OneSky from Canada.
For both my daughter and I the first visit in 1988 was a totally new experience. For Clare it was a less than enjoyable one at times and on three occasions she fainted because of the heat and humidity and felt homesick after only four days. She was a little overcome by the attentions of some well meaning young people who visited the house in Sanders Street where we stayed with Olatunde's sister, Theresa. However, a couple of visits to the beautiful Lumley Beach were perhaps at least some small compensation for the hardships.
Our hosts had given up their beds for us whilst they slept on the floor. This made us feel a little guilty - our first lesson in African hospitality.

Kroobay
A lady came to the house each day with her baby to help with the cooking and on one occasion the baby was sick. She asked if I would buy some medicine for her child and after a visit to the chemist she asked Clare and I if we would like to come and see where she lived. This turned out to be a large slum housing about 5,000 people. The area was named Kroobay and was situated at the edge of the sea. Noticeable features of the area were the children paddling in the sewage water that washed down from the city and groups of pigs wallowing in the filth. Some women were washing in the contaminated water and some men were collecting shoes from amongst the rubbish for recycling.

After sitting in on a tribal court meeting presided over by one of the five tribal chiefs, I asked a man named Alfred, who spoke English very clearly, if he would describe to us some of the problems experienced by the community.
He pointed out that the greatest need was for clean water. Women had to walk over a mile into the city to fetch water. I promised that I would seek to raise £700 for a water supply provided that the community established a co-operative organisation to receive the money. They agreed to do this but it took 18 months, and a visit by my friend, Matthew, to achieve this. I sent the money and in fact three supplies were installed by the newly formed Freetown Kroobay Development Association (FKDA). Except for a small toilet block installed by a German charity, this was the first aid the community had received. It was only later that I discovered some of the difficulties the group had experienced - suspicions of having received large sums of money from 'the white man', a corrupt treasurer who ran off with some of the funds, theft of materials, etc. One man went deaf as a result of keeping all night watch on materials during bad weather.

After this initial help for the community I had naively expected other agencies to recognise what the community had achieved and come in with further help. However, a couple of years later I was shocked to discover from a BBC 2 programme called 'Trade Slaves' about the scandalous exploitation of Sierra Leone's resources by multinational companies, that this was not the case.
The programme included a visit to Kroobay to illustrate the contribution this exploitation was making to poverty in the country. The BBC correspondent remarked that the three water taps I had raised money for was the only help that the community had received.
I retired from my employment as a civil engineer in 1992, raised £10,000 and returned to Kroobay to help build a community centre which had been identified as the next priority.
However, when I returned in 1993 with the expectation of starting the building immediately, I was dismayed to find that (i) planning permission had not been obtained (ii) there were doubts about ownership of the land and (iii) construction drawings had not been prepared.
I suppose I would have been justified in turning round and going straight home as I had been assured beforehand that all these matters had been sorted out; but I decided on a different course of action.

In the light of these doubts I decided that I would allocate only £5,000 towards the project. I then entered into discussions with the FKDA about what size the building should be. Their request was for a building much bigger than I expected. Without having the slightest idea of the likely total cost or how I might raise the money, I remarked "Well, if that's what you really want then lets go for it!". I then employed a young architect fresh out of Forah Bay College to produce the plans. He did an excellent job and I bought some materials and tools for the construction and joined with members of the FKDA to make concrete blocks for the walls. Several hundred were made in the three days I was with the community.
During this short period Olatunde had arranged an interview for me with the City Mayor. This encounter was interesting and later events were to show that his attitudes were wrong.
"How can you be so foolish as to trust those people. Are you supervising them?" was his response to my description of the purpose of my visit. "Why was I not told about this before you came to Sierra Leone?".
He then became a little defensive when I told him that I had written to the young president, Capt Valentine Strasser before my visit. "It was not my fault that the information had not filtered down to you. In any case, why do you want to know?".
"Because we want to thank you. I know you British, you always like to be officially thanked for what you do" was his reply.
I assured him that the only 'thanks' I wanted was to see the building finished.
To be fair, the remarks made were not entirely unjustified. Kroobay had a reputation for harbouring some criminal elements - drug addiction amongst the youths was a problem and the community was a good source of 'rent-a-mobs' for politicians at the time of Elections.
What happened to the remaining £5,000?

First of all I contributed towards the purchase of a car for my first contact in Sierra Leone, Olatunde Johnson. The remainder I gave to my new host, Isatu Conteh. My first meeting with her in 1988 was to lead to a new chapter in my association with the people of Sierra Leone.
But first I will give a brief account of some interaction I had with some youths at Kroobay and in Syke Street where I was staying during the 1993 visit. At the time of this visit the country was being ruled by the National Provisional Ruling Council which was established by the very youthful Valentine Strasser and other officers who had mounted a coup after a dispute they had about wages. This was a hopeful time (unfortunately short-lived) during which Strasser was getting young people to clean up the city, paint fine works of art on walls and fill pot holes in the streets. I helped some of the young men clean out the drains in the street and later helped them to form their own club (whether it still exists I don't know). I had also built up a rapport with some of the youths at Kroobay many of whom were living a wasted life gambling at a secluded spot at the entrance to the bay. They had formed a football club, 'Blackstar Ghana', named after one of the most successful clubs in Africa at that time. They had reached the final of the local cup and this was held on a patch of ground next to a cemetery. Because the main football stadium was closed, about 10,000 people turned up to watch the match, parts of which I recorded with my camcorder. The boys had persuaded me to buy them new shirts for the final and I detected that there was a firm determination to win this match. At full time the score was two goals each and it was then down to penalties. About ten shots from each side hit the back of the net in the now fading light. When the Blackstar goalkeeper then saved to win the match an excited roar went up all around the ground and people flooded onto the pitch. I was made to feel very much a part of this success as the celebrations continued outside the house where I was staying.

My first meeting with Edward Kargbo
The course of my relationship with people in Sierra Leone was to take a totally new direction as a result of chance meeting with a Pentecostal preacher, Isatu Conteh. I met her whilst waiting to see a government minister during my 1988 visit (He did not turn up despite a prior appointment). She told me about some of her work with the young drug addicts in the city and in the evening took me on a walkabout to see some of the 'low spots'. I was to later ask Isatu if she would arrange my accommodation for my second visit in 1993.
One quiet afternoon at the Syke Street house (which I shared with about 20 other people) I was approached by Edward Kargbo, a farmer from Yonibana. He had travelled 90 miles to see me and said he knew about my stay as a result of information from a friend who had written to me in the UK. I took an instant liking to this quiet man who looked you straight in the eye when he talked. I agreed to visit Yonibana and Olatunde's car was to prove useful for this purpose.
Much to my surprise and pleasure Isatu and her friends decided to use part of the money I had given to them to organise an FIOH seminar at Port Loko (formerly the centre for the slave trade in Sierra Leone) on primary health, organic farming and appropriate technology.
About 100 people attended the meeting, including Edward. I was later to learn that it was this seminar that encouraged him to return to Yonibana and establish a union of 13 farmers organisations named Future in Our Hands Farmers Union (later to become FIOH Sierra Leone).

FIOH Forah Bay Road
Sullaiman ('Teddy') Bangura was a man who took the initiative to encourage the establishment of the FKDA and an FIOH group at one of the main roads into Freetown. However I did not suspect that he was a criminal opportunist who in fact joined the rebels when they entered Freetown along with a former member of the FKDA, Bankoli "Banky" Koruma. Banky was a well known criminal before my first visit to Freetown and Isatu thought she had 'brought this man to Christ' and made him see the error of his ways. This was, however, a leopard who did not change his spots it would seem! Thankfully, with the help of a grand old lady, Mrs Thompson, and a man named Osman Conteh, Teddy was thrown out of the group along with other members who had been involved in dishonest activities (I did not know that the group even existed before Osman wrote to me informing me of these changes).

At my request Edward had made valiant efforts to bring all the groups I had been working with into a loose alliance before my 2002 visit, but without much success. However, they were now included on our programme.

 

Kroobay revisited
Our second visit was to Kroobay. I had not corresponded with the FKDA for over a year and I was interested to know how the community had progressed. Much of the developments I had hoped for had now taken place and I discovered that the community had a strong working relationship with the City Council under a new body named the Area Development Committee (ADC).


From the meeting I got the impression that the FKDA played the leading role in this new body. How different this new situation was from that which existed when I first visited in 1988. At that time the City Council had plans to clear all the slum dwellings from the area. I too would like to see this happen - but only when suitable alternative accommodation becomes available and with the agreement of the community. Such a situation still seemed some distance into the future when Sierra Leone becomes the rich country it deserves to be.
The new developments included a concrete road skirting the edge of the site, a footpath penetrating into the centre of the area and a block of showers and toilets all constructed with funds from the World Bank (Why didn't the Bank do more I wondered?). A day care centre had been built with funds from Plan International and the 'community centre' was now a health centre and was completed with funds from the World Health Organisation. A very large corrugated iron shed housed large ovens being used to smoke fish ready for export to the USA and the UK where emigrants still had a taste for the 'old country' foods. More water taps had been installed and there were designated areas for washing. Although we still saw children paddling in contaminated water and piles of rubbish were still lodged at the sewage outfalls, the health situation for the community was now good. The new Health Centre also now provided a ready facility for safe child delivery and the treatment of most diseases and minor ailments. There were plans to turn the unused part of the centre into a ward (perhaps the situation here would become better than that of the city hospital!). However, despite the positive developments, I observed that all the dwellings were still vulnerable to flooding which was likely to be increasingly severe as a result of the new paved areas. I also suspected that trees were still being felled in the catchment area draining to the Bay and that this would also increase the run-off.
This is a community of skilled artisans. At various points around the Bay blacksmiths were making tools and cooking utensils and other people were making shoes, clothes and many other items essential for everyday use. I was especially intrigued by a group of men making aluminium bowls of a high quality. A blind man was putting the finishing touches filing off the sharp edges and he seemed very pleased when I touched him on the shoulder and praised him for his work. I wondered where the aluminium was coming from but later my question was answered as we were passed by a group of boys with Coca Cola cans.

The president of the FKDA and the ADC is Momodu Bangura. My correspondence with Momodu goes back to 1993 when I encouraged him to develop an association with Edward.
A bit more history is appropriate at this point.

Agricultural project at Yonibana and renewed rebel attacks
When Edward returned to Yonibana from the seminar at Port Loko in 1993 I gave him £400 for a training programme in administration and primary health care. I also sent 13 copies of the book 'Where there is no doctor' for use in the training. Rebels had started to infiltrate Sierra Leone in 1991 and, although they had occupied parts of the north and east, were not considered to be a threat to the rest of the country at that time. Little did I realise that the country was starting its gradual descent into chaos.
Christmas Day 1994 sticks out in my memory. This was the day the rebels first attacked Yonibana. All public buildings, including the training centre, were destroyed and two villages were burnt to the ground.
Wells were poisoned and crops and seeds destroyed. In February 1995 Yonibana was attacked again and many people, including Edward and his family (two wives and nine children) fled to Freetown. I asked Momodu if he would divert £1,800 the FKDA had received from Immanuel Church in Swindon as a result of their harvest appeal, to an emergency food relief for the people at Yonibana. I said that I would replace the money later. Momodu and Edward then took a large lorry load of food supplies to Yonibana.
On May 5th 1995 Edward was badly injured in an attack on a convoy taking emergency supplies to Yonibana. His wounds took three months to heal.

People started returning to Yonibana from the bush and displaced camps, but rebels attacked the area again on 11th July 1995 and 28th Dec 1995. Once again people fled to displaced camps in Freetown. Children from ten schools in Swindon filled shoe boxes with £4,000 worth of emergency supplies - dried food and milk, pharmaceuticals, books and toys - and these were distributed at displaced camps and Yonibana on 13th February 1997.
A peace accord was signed and on 10th January 1997 the Future in Our hands Education and Development Fund UK made an application to the Community Fund for a grant of £43,000 to help people to re-establish their farming activities at Yonibana. The application was approved on 20th May 1997.

On the 25th May 1997 a coup was mounted under the leadership of Johnny Paul Koroma and prisoners were released from Freetown's jails. The new junta then joined forces with the RUF rebels. This alliance was not recognised by the international community and on the 24th October 1997 the Community Fund witheld funds for the project.
With the aid of mercenaries and the Nigerian forces President Kabbah was restored to power on 13th Feb 1998. The Community Fund restored payments on 11th May 1998 and on 14th November 1998 the project was officially re-launched.(I was able to get small amounts of money to Edward from the FIOH Fund's reserves during the period when the funds were frozen by the Community Fund). However, almost immediately the rebels launched new attacks on Yonibana and on 22nd December 1998 I lost contact with Edward. On 6th January 1999 rebels attacked Freetown and carried out many atrocities in the city. They drove large numbers of civilians before them as a shield as they entered the city and the Nigerian soldiers had to make a tactical withdrawal. Momodu escaped the rebels by giving them bribes and later joined up with the ECOMOG forces.
On the 21st Feb 1999 the Nigerian ECOMOG forces drove the rebels out of Freetown and on the 8th March Edward rang me to say that he and his family were safe after spending over 2 months in the bush gradually travelling the 90 miles towards Freetown.
On 7th July 1999 the Lome Peace Accord was signed and UN forces moved into the country. On the 6th August 1999 a large contingent of UN troops was kidnapped by the rebels.
On 26th Feb 2000 the project was once again re-launched.
It might be argued that the international community should have acted much sooner, as they did in the former Yugoslavia, for example. I am not too sure about this because Sierra Leoneans appeared to be saying that they could sort out their own problems. But the West was implicated in the suffering in a far more insidious way which reflects the philosophy 'that anything can be justified in the name of economic growth'!

Blood diamonds
Because of what has happened in Sierra Leone and previously in Cambodia, where the Khmer Rouge were also responsible for similar atrocities against civilians, the sight of a diamond will always remind me of blood and suffering. To understand my attitude you have merely to ask for the answer to the question "Where did the rebels get the money to buy their guns and other sophisticated weapons to fight against the ECOMOG forces?". Here is a major part of the answer:

On 13 Jan 2000 Partnership Africa Canada reported that the records of the High Diamond Council (Belgium) showed that between 1990 and 1998 the Antwerp diamond industry imported an annual average of nearly 5 mil carats of diamonds from Liberia and 600,000 from Guinea - 'In 1998, while the Sierra Leone government Gold and Diamond Office reported exports of only 8,500 carats, the High Diamond Council's own figures showed it imported 770,000 carats of diamonds from Sierra Leone during the same period'.

Harmless bullets!
I have heard so many times that many rebel soldiers and indeed the Kamajor village militias believed that they could not be harmed by enemy bullets and I had to accept that indeed they truly believed this. Was it marijuana that enabled them to go into battle in this frame of mind? I believe so. This might also to some extent explain the very brutal nature of the conflict. The use of children in the torture and killing might also be in part explained by fears among the adult soldiers that they would be haunted by the spirits of those they had killed - a fate they could avoid by making or encouraging children to do their 'dirty work' for them.

A sleepless night in Freetown
On the 5th May 2000 I returned to Sierra Leone to monitor and record the project but I was not to move out of Freetown. I spent a hot and sleepless first night on the top floor of a three storey building.
I did little on the next day but had a brief talk with some of the women from a displaced camp Edward had been helping. That night my bed and mosquito net were set up on the veranda where the temperature was cooler than inside the building. At about midnight I was awoken by my host with the news that "The rebels are coming". (We were not to know at that moment that the rebel attacks had been repressed by UN forces many miles from the city). My immediate feeling was of panic as I rearranged my money and passport into the inner pocket of my trousers and placed other money in a wallet I could toss to any rebel soldiers who might enter the building. That was the best I could think of at the time. The panic lasted only a few minutes and after that I had a very calm feeling which lasted all night. The adults talked periodically through the night but there was little to be said in such circumstances. I think we were thankful that the children all slept peacefully on the floor oblivious to the danger.
The night passed without event and at 7.45 a.m. I was preparing to go the church on the other side of the road when Eddie arrived to tell me what had happened. He wanted me to leave immediately because he felt the situation was still too volatile and dangerous.

As we drove towards the heliport British soldiers were moving into the country to ensure a safe exit for those who were leaving. I left Edward with very mixed feelings and concerns for his safety. The journey home via Conakry in Guinea and Banjul in the Gambia took a week.
At Banjul Airport a young airport photographer, Kebba Jabang, helped me leave the passport area to ring my wife, Glenys. He then asked if he could write to me in the UK. I was later to help this young man set up a registered non-government organisation in the Gambia named GAMDEV and we were to meet up again in Freetown during the first few days of my latest trip. [See also previous report]



Rongbeh Village - the site of the capture of British soldiers
As Edward and I set off on our third visit - to a village about 35 miles from the capital - he showed me a letter from the UK Ministry of Defence. The letter thanked the people of the village for assisting them in locating nine British soldiers who had been captured by rebels who called themselves the West Side Boys.


Only one British soldier was killed in the action that followed to release the nine.
Most of the rebels in this western area were later killed by British soldiers. It was probably this decisive action which did most to restore the authority of the United Nations and convince the rebels that they were engaged in a war they could not win.
This was reinforced by the determined but diplomatic action of Indian forces in the east where rebels gradually surrendered their weapons.
The village had not recovered from the destruction caused by the rebels and the people were living in makeshift huts with very flimsy grass roofs.
In this village and the one we visited the next day, which was a similar distance from the city, FIOH had been helping the people by supplying seed and agricultural advice.

An FIOH Womens Credit Union Co-operative Network.
After a discussion with Edward, I introduced the women to the idea of setting up a Sierra Leone wide womens credit union cooperative network.
Altogether we put this idea to ten womens groups from Freetown in the south to Makeni in the north and beyond. There was a 100% positive response in all the villages we were to visit.
I had already introduced the idea to women in Kenya and the Cameroon following discussions with my FIOH friends, Rom Wandera and Ndzerem Stephen. My reasoning for doing this was, in the first instance based on the belief that any form of sustainable development must involve the empowerment of women. But how were women to gain economic and political power in an exploitative neo-liberal economic climate and in the face of possible opposition from men?
However much I advocated an end to economic growth, the development of community currencies, organic methods of growing crops, etc I also had to be pragmatic and acknowledge that women had to understand how they could operate the present system to their own advantage. How could they possibly secure the capital required to benefit from the system? Clearly the only way women could secure the capital they required was to come together in large numbers and combine their savings. It took only a few simple calculations to show that the potential for developing a powerful womens economic unit in Sierra Leone was great. I explained the advantages by showing that the women could afford to buy their own lorry within a relatively short space of time. In the local context they could afford to repair the local rice mill.

The idea is to have a network of village credit unions linked to district co-operatives. The co-operatives would in turn be served by a central executive with a central bank account. All the members would put a percentage of their savings into their local co-operative and also into the central national account. Loans would only be given from savings at the local level where there would be a social pressure to repay loans and also take account of difficulties individuals might have at certain times in repaying.
Edward will now carry out a more detailed consultation with the women and then organise the training required to operate the Network.

Shall we go to the UK ?
Although I knew very well that the support of the Community Fund had been an important element in the food relief programmes that developed in the Yonibana area, this visit made me realise that its importance was even greater than I imagined. The fact that FIOH was to play a major role in bringing relief to people well beyond the original project area is a testimony to the quality of leadership of Edward and his staff. The support of the World Food Programme, CARE and other charities and, more recently, the Department for International Development UK (DFID), were also significant factors. Over the next few days I was to witness the surprising extent of FIOH activities in the country.
Just two weeks before my visit, Edward had received a land rover from the World Food Programme in recognition of the value of the work FIOH was doing. Edward wanted to ensure that it was in the best of condition before it was put on the road and had placed it in a garage for cleaning, minor repairs and painting with the FIOH logo. This was to be our mode of travel for the rest of my visit.
As we sped along one of the few metalled roads in the country towards Mile 91 and Yonibana with some of his staff, Edward remarked "Ladies and gentlemen, shall we go to the UK?"
He then switched on the air conditioning and suddenly the discomfort of Africa disappeared in a waft of cool air. This expression was to be repeated many times over the remaining days with subtle variations. However, on one occasion when we gave a villager a lift she complained of the cold.

"They are not rebels - we call them ex-combatants!"
A well constructed FIOH training centre, workshop and office is located at Mile 91 where young people come to learn a trade and engage in income generating activities. The complex is combined with a shop to sell the products made. The activities include tailoring, dressmaking, gara dyeing, carpentry, ironmongery and literacy training. This was the place where I had to undergo some reassessment of previous held views about the former rebels.
I was of the view that any process of reconciliation should involve a facility that would enable former rebels to make restitution for the atrocities they had committed.
Edward disagreed. "We do not call them rebels - they are ex-combatants - they are our brothers. We have to integrate them back into society without expecting any kind of restitution". He pointed out that many of these young people were genuinely sorry for what they had done whilst a few still tried to justify their actions. Some people were telling me that many had gone mad because they could not come to terms with their actions. Ironically, many were begging, along with their victims, on the streets of Freetown. I had to remember that it was not just the rebels who had committed atrocities.

I asked Edward how he went about convincing people towards his point of view (and remember that he and his family suffered as much as anyone else in this pointless war). He told me that he reminded people that many had said that war was the only way they could get rid of corruption in the country. They got what they wanted even though it did not turn out how they expected. Now everyone wanted peace there was no option but to accept 'ex-combatants' back into society. Although I still felt that it would be impossible for many people to forgive, I had to admit that what he said was right. Some of the young men in the workshop were ex-combatants and I spent a day working with them. The experience not only helped me to come to terms with my new awareness but also realise the extreme difficulty they had working with bent saws made from poor quality steel. I was very surprised that such high quality furniture was being produced in such circumstances.

The welcome we received at Yonibana and indeed in all the communities we visited, was almost overwhelming and what pleased me most was the high regard people had for Edward and all his staff. In all meetings tribal chiefs, elders and community workers were very anxious to inform me about the way Edward and his staff had helped them while they were living in the bush. Nine FIOH members had in fact been killed while carrying out humanitarian work providing food and shelter. At one stage he bought a car with some of the money I had sent and set up a taxi service to provide for his family. When he first drove into the bush at the height of the conflict people fled from the vehicle because they thought it was the rebels who had come. He had to shout out to them to come back. I was told about the way Edward had persuaded people to leave the bush and start growing crops with the seed he was able to provide. I heard gratitude for the emergency supplies provided by Swindon's school children. The books and pencils donated were used to start a school of about 200 pupils.
We were able to see only a fraction of the agricultural projects started by FIOH, but all of these were very impressive. Groundnuts, maize, rice, cassava, sweet potatoes and a wide variety of vegetables were being grown extensively throughout the areas of Mile 91, Yonibana and Rochen Junction (The Yoni Chiefdom). Some of these agricultural plots extended for about a mile. One area I visited in 1993 had been covered in trees. This area had been denuded of trees because people displaced by the fighting had been forced to cut them down for fuelwood. This area was now covered with acacia saplings provided by FIOH for agro-forestry.

At the time of my visit in 1993 Edward was working as manager of the local rice mill. This was no longer working as parts of it had been removed by the rebels. The building was now being used for storing food aid imported from the USA. There was of course a desperate need to repair this and other rice mills throughout the country because there was still too much reliance on imports. Edward and his staff were trying to convince farmers to grow more maize (sweet corn) because of its higher nutritional value.
I stayed with some of the travelling staff at a 'hotel' in Mile 91. This was a building with 8 bedrooms and a single toilet - a concrete slab with a 150mm square hole over an earth pit - about 50 metres from the building. The greatest pleasure in the evening was to stand on a concrete slab outside the building and pour containers of water over my head whilst looking up into a cloudless sky lit up like a gigantic Christmas tree bedecked with stars and satellites. I suddenly realised that I was looking at many of them for the very first time.

The FIOH 'embassy'
Our next visit was to Makeni, a large town 60 miles further north situated approximately at the centre of the country. We were passed several times by truck loads of smiling Bangladeshi soldiers whose current peacekeeping role was to reinstate the country's major road network.
I was surprised at the size of the FIOH headquarters and the height of the rooms. My first remark on entering was 'So this is the FIOH embassy'. The building was rented from a man who did not want to charge for the use of the building. Edward had helped this man during the war and he wanted to show his gratitude in this way. However, Edward insisted on paying a small rental. A large meeting had been arranged for our visit and this was attended by the representatives of 15 non-government organisations (N.G.Os). FIOH was the very first NGO to start development work in the area and provided a valuable advisory service to other NGOs especially with regard to the aid programmes operated by DFID and the World Food Programme. One representative remarked to me "You can call on FIOH staff at any time of the day or night and they will always find time to listen and advise you".
I often noticed this about Edward. No matter what our plans, if someone turned up to speak to him just before we were to leave for a meeting he would always deal with the caller first rather than ask that person to call again at another time. This way of working had clearly rubbed off on his staff. I was very impressed by the way he consulted his staff about important matters and tried resolve any disputes by consensus. But when a decision was to be made there was no doubt as to who was the boss. He was tolerant and understanding but there was no doubt about his authority and he had the respect of his staff whether they were paid or voluntary. He had 16 paid staff and 15 who were volunteers. I asked him how he had come to attract such good quality staff and why so few of them were women. He told me that the fact that most of his staff were men was not his choice. Originally he had advertised for voluntary staff and it was men who applied. He felt that it would only be those who were most committed to helping the less fortunate that would apply to help on a voluntary basis. However, despite the shortage of women on his staff, I did notice on several occasions how much Edward respected women and sought the advice of those with special qualifications.
He drew heavily on the knowledge of his agricultural technical adviser, Alfred Collier. He would often remark on his own lack of education and his wish to improve his knowledge of English. I acknowledged his desire for more education but doubted whether it would add anything to his qualities as a communicator, motivator and leader.

Seed multiplication
When we visited just a few of the vast agricultural areas established with the help of FIOH, Alfred explained to me the FIOH seed multiplication programme. He told me about the time they had asked people who were able to grow crops to save some of their seed for use in those areas where rebels had destroyed crops. This was the start of the seed multiplication programme which involved shifting seed from crop growing areas to areas of destruction and need. New areas had been penetrated in both the Makeni and Yonibana areas through the construction of roads through scrub land with the help of the World Food Programme's 'food for work'. The roads were of a high quality because FIOH insisted that the beneficial communities take responsibility for ongoing maintenance.

Too many widows
FIOH had developed a policy of accessing remote villages that had not been reached by other agencies. We visited one of these which was 45 miles from Makeni and close to the border with Guinea.
Rarely were we able to travel at a speed of more than 4 m.p.h. One road, which had not been maintained for more than 7 years, had one metre depressions and the appearance of a very rough sea.
In this village we were shown a soap making process using a mixture of palm nut oil and caustic soda which had been introduced to many villages by FIOH.
Houses in the area were very makeshift and had mud wattle walls and grass roofs. I was told of the particular dangers that would face these communities with the onset of the seasonal winds 'the Hamattan'. Even the slightest spark from an open fire could set the roofs of all the village houses alight in just a few devastating minutes.
During the meeting at the village we were told of the hardships suffered during the rebel occupation and shelling from the Guinean side of the border. Whenever the shelling started the rebels would go searching for men hiding in the bush and then slit their throats. When the Paramount Chief asked women who were widows to put up their hands about 70% did so.

Radio interviews
I was asked for interviews at radio stations at Yonibana and Makeni. The recordings were made on simple cassettes and both stations were run on generators. I was reasonably satisfied with both interviews and the questions I had been asked. What surprised me was that anyone should have the enterprise and courage to set up these stations in such remote areas so soon after the war.
This was not the first time I had been impressed by the enterprise and improvisation of Africans in difficult circumstances. I had also witnessed this in Kenya and the Cameroon.

The end of wildlife?
Maybe I am worrying unnecessarily, but seeing the amount of bush meat being sold by the roadside on the way back from Makeni to Freetown made me wonder if the extinction of many species of wildlife in the country was imminent. Not that the sale of bush meat was so surprising in the light of the killing and sale of domestic animals by the rebels.
I have the feeling that any kind of conservation programme for the country will have to be coupled with a huge programme for the reintroduction of domestic animals.

Fuelwood for education
"Why were so many children (boys and girls) carrying large bundles of wood on their heads?" My question must have seemed strange to Edward because for him the answer must have been so obvious.
"They are carrying the wood to sell".
"But what if they do not sell any?"
"Well then either they will not have enough for their school fees tomorrow or they may not have enough money for food". Simple really!!!

A displaced camp
When many people fled from the rural areas they drifted into displaced camps in Freetown. We visited one of these where thousands of people had not yet been resettled back in their home communities. The camp consisted of rows of tents housing men, women and children. We spoke to two women who told us of the hardships they suffered when they first entered the camp where they initially had to live without any form of shelter and little food.

Mrs Thompson
Before I left I felt I had to pay another visit to the old lady, Mrs Thompson, who had referred to me as her 'boyfriend'. She had helped Osman Conteh oust the corrupt elements in the Forah Bay FIOH group and I was grateful for this. During this second visit she told me about her own experience with the rebels. At the time of rebel occupation she was living in Calabatown. The rebels entered her house because they had heard that she possessed dollars. One of the rebels caught hold of her arm and raised his machete to cut it off. However, he was distracted as he brought down the weapon and cut his own leg instead. At that moment ECOMOG forces entered the area and killed most of the rebels there.

The meeting under the mango tree
I asked Edward if there could be a meeting of all the groups with which I had been associated in the past. This was arranged for the day before I left and fourteen of us, representatives of FIOH, FOE and the FKDA, sat together under a mango tree to discuss ways in which we could all work together in the future under the banner of FIOH. This was a last attempt at an alliance.
There was a very positive and hopeful outcome to the meeting at which Edward was confirmed as the general co-ordinator with respect to all matters relating to the use of the FIOH name. There was also an agreement to share information and to jointly agree on the appointment of independent monitors for projects funded by FIOH UK. There were also discussions about a joint resource centre but there was a difference in approach between Edward and Momodu and no decision was made. After the meeting a leaving party had been arranged and a large number of people gathered at the house to listen to the disco and to some short speeches of farewell.

My last day was also the end of Ramadan, the Islamic Holy Month, a time of fasting and prayer. Islam is the main religious faith in Sierra Leone. For the past two weeks I had little tinges of guilt whenever guests refused food 'because they were fasting'.
In the morning thousands of people gathered in a field near the house and I went along with one of the children from the house to witness some of the prayers.

Later I met Edward's family at his house about a mile away and there his children asked me to give them some lessons. In just a few moments chairs were arranged in front of a desk and a blackboard erected at the front the veranda. The 'lessons' went on for about an hour until we broke off for lunch and prepared for the journey to the airport.
The heliport was closed and the ferry had to be used to make the crossing to the airport. We arrived at the quay only to see the ferry leaving an hour earlier than scheduled. "Oh no - Africa time was still being practised, but this time in reverse!"
We were told that the next one would be at 5.30 p.m. but we decided to arrive at 4.30. It was just as well we did because the ferry was just about to leave. Had we missed this ferry the alternative journey by road would have meant a circuitous route of 100 miles. The crossing took about 45 minutes and there was a half hour drive to the airport on the other side.
The plane was due to leave at 10.35 p.m. but was an hour late leaving because of five security checks including one on the plane itself (The extra security was most likely related to the recent terrorist attack on a hotel in Mombasa). Edward insisted on staying until I checked in at customs - attentive to the very last.
It was ironical that I had an upset stomach as a result of eating fish on the plane. A Lebanese man with whom I had built up a friendship on the journey suffered the same food problem along with others who were queuing at the toilet shortly before we landed. Later I contracted bronchitis waiting in the cold for a bus at Gatwick Airport. During all my time in Sierra Leone I had no trouble with the food or in any other way.

Quiet reflections
Being more or less housebound for two weeks has left me with some valuable time for reflection. Was it possible to make any sense of the ten years of mayhem in Sierra Leone and did the experience have any lessons for us in the UK?
In trying to make sense of what has happened I find that I am merely asking more questions. But then perhaps the questions are themselves important if they prompt new ways of thinking about possible ways of addressing a wide series of impending crises in the UK and internationally. Perhaps the manner in which the conflict in Sierra Leone developed could have been predicted from an examination of the tribal divisions and occult beliefs ingrained in African culture (perhaps they are in fact little different from those of the occult society to which Hitler and his cohorts belonged).
I am reminded of an incident that happened when I visited Yonibana in 1993. A secret society meeting of men and two women (honorary men) was taking place in one of the villages. The men were dancing in a circle and one of the witch doctors came over to me. I was expected to give him some money. He looked me in the eyes and I remember thinking at the time that the look was both menacing and a way of telling me that his power was much greater than mine. If that was indeed the intention, he need not have bothered. I was told that bad things could happen at the secret meetings in the forests but was not given any details.
Two young men had accompanied Edward and myself and the witch doctor pointed to them and asked them why they were not taking part in the ceremony. They were about to be dragged into the gathering when Edward pointed out that they were practising Muslims and therefor exempt.

I found the experience unnerving and the news that some westerners had joined the society in the past, even more disturbing. But in trying to rationalise the reasons why human beings can be so cruel I find myself asking if the answers might also be found in perhaps the jingoism of the 'Last Night of the Proms' and the popular tabloids? Perhaps they could be found in Hindu, Buddhist, Christian, Muslim or other religious fundamentalism, selfish and profligate consumerism and a media which mocks moral values and promotes gambling, violence and competitive behaviour?
However, no matter how much I try to rationalise what has happened in terms of cultural superstitions or fundamentalism I keep returning to the belief that most of the problems we face are related to economics and economic growth.
How can an ultimate good come from a global economic system which creates extreme inequality and justifies and allows that the great majority of humanity live in poverty?
I am also confirmed in my belief that any solutions to these problems have to be set within a framework of human values such as sharing, co-operation, fellowship, compassion and truth.

During my latest visit Edward reminded me that I had asked him to include as many tribes as possible in his development programmes right from the start. Our programme involved visits to the Mende, Timini, Lokko, Temne, Fulah and Krio (descendants of ex slaves) villages.
[Similarly when Glenys and I visited the Cameroon, my friend Ndzerem Stephen reminded me that I had advised him to grow as many species of tree as possible in the nurseries funded by the FIOH Fund. I asked him to put aside the idea that only a few would be of value].
At this point in time I believe that the solutions to human problems must involve a willingness of groups of people with different belief systems to work for common goals which will enable everyone to have a good quality of life. Our ability to survive as a species must also involve a proper understanding of the importance of biological diversity and our willingness to protect it for the benefit of generations to come.

Despite these current beliefs, I also try to keep in mind the concept of the 'Unfinished' as described in Erik Dammann's 'Revolution in the Affluent Society'. We should not have fixed ideas about the goals and objectives we may feel are necessary to make the world a better place. The goals we identify, and the objectives we may set to achieve them, may have to change in the light of changing circumstances and as goals are achieved, we may need to set our sights on new ones. In a personal sense I also interpret the concept of 'the unfinished' as a state of mind that is open to a change of opinion and attitudes in the light of a new awareness and understanding based on reasoned argument and discussion.
Erik Dammann also introduced me to another concept which I believe to be important - 'Counteraction'.
This concept reasons that if the objective is to correct the perceived source of a problem then the solution should be 'counteractive' i.e. something totally different from, or indeed opposite to, that perceived cause. Applying this reasoning to my feelings about economics and economic growth suggests that the development of a new science that will in the first instance highlight the many negative outcomes of economic growth, is required.
I have tried to apply the concept of 'the unfinished' to most of the work I do by trying to think of obstacles as opportunities to move in a different direction or to think about problems in a different way.
Putting practical expression to the concept of 'counteraction' I find far more challenging. I have some vague ideas about a new science which I have called which will provide a framework for measuring the energy used 'from cradle to grave' (i.e. a life cycle analysis) in all items of production. The true ecological cost (the contribution of an item's production to pollution and resource depletion) is currently masked by the huge wage differentials between workers across the world. Other factors such as slavery, child labour, destruction of tropical rainforests and other natural resources would also be analysed and made transparent in assessing the true value of an item.

Although my feelings about FIOH in Sierra Leone are nearly all positive, I was somewhat dismayed by a lack of understanding, even among FIOH staff, about the forces of exploitation causing mal-development in poor countries. Far too many were smoking and also drinking the nutritionally deficient products of the Coca-Cola company, for example.
The activities of many multinational companies give me cause for concern. I have just read in the Independent newspaper that Nestle have been buying up the milk of Pakistani dairy farmers for less than the price it costs to produce and then selling it on as 'long life' at a profit of 200%. The company is also demanding a £3.7 mil payment from famine stricken Ethiopia as compensation for the nationalisation of a company which Nestle owns.
The willingness of the UK government to allow, and even encourage, the penetration of multinational companies into all aspects of our daily lives is one of the developments I find most disturbing. I see this, which is leading to the erosion of the power of the nation state and democratic government, as a very negative development. For example, the Evening Advertiser , a Swindon newspaper, along with a large number of other local British newspapers, is owned by a US multinational company. How will this influence editorial policy at the local level? We already see a bias towards neo-liberal economic points of view in most of the national newspapers.

The Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr Rowan Williams, in his Richard Dimbleby Lecture highlighted some of the dangers inherent in these new developments, although I thought his arguments that the Church had an important role in alerting people to the dangers, rather unconvincing. In fact I feel that the Church has been slow to alert people to the dangers. Sadly Dr Williams did not outline any solutions to threats he identified in the consumer, free market culture.

I would welcome a dialogue with anyone who reads this report on the 'beginnings of an idea' I have outlined above.

The motto of FIOH in Sierra Leone is 'Be afraid to be idle'. There is no doubt that any solutions to the complex causes of the problems we face, will need to be equally complex and will require a great deal of hard work in the face of continuous obstruction and apathy. There are no easy answers. Just because the value based framework I have outlined is very simple and easy to understand does not mean to say that the activities that need to take place for positive change within that framework should be equally simple. For example, the decision by the Cuban government to switch to predominantly organic farming methods to meet its food needs in the face of US embargoes and the collapse of the Soviet Union, has involved highly technical processes. Meeting the energy needs of future generations may have to involve processes which are equally complex. But if we continue to use the old tried and failed economic growth approaches of the past we continue to condemn the mass of humanity to grinding poverty.


Michael Thomas
24 - 12 - 2002

CLOSE